Posts Tagged: Tokyo

Chapter Fourteen: Year of the Horse, Tokyo, December 2013. Part Two

Continuation from Part One here.

Tsukiji Fish Market

One of the areas in Tokyo that I always try and visit is the Tsukiji fish market area. Although this area in Tokyo has been a fish market since 1935, after the previous fish market was relocated here following the major earthquake that hit Tokyo in 1923, the decision has recently been taken to relocate the fish market outside of the city. From Wikipedia: “The Tsukiji fish market occupies valuable real estate close to the center of the city. Former Tokyo Governor Shintaro Ishihara has repeatedly called for moving the market to Toyosu, Koto, with construction of the new market to begin in 2013 for completion in 2014. The new location has been criticized for being heavily polluted and in need of cleanup. There are plans to retain a retail market, roughly a quarter of the current operation, in Tsukiji. The remaining area of the market will be redeveloped.”

 

Tsukiji Market Trader

Tsukiji Market Trader

 

Especially during this time of the year, the fish market is crowded in the early morning. The streets through the market are very narrow, and the eagerness of the shoppers to get the best fish, combined with the steady flow of traffic, really means you have to keep your wits about you so that you don’t fall over and get trampled upon. The area provides some great opportunities for photography, and it’s possible to get some timeless photographs of the traders hawking their wares. Of course, after you have spent a couple of hours wandering the streets, it’s breakfast time, and there is an ample selection of sushi and sashimi restaurants serving the freshest fish….

 

Tsukiji Market Trader serving fresh grilled oysters

Tsukiji Market Trader serving fresh grilled oysters

 

Tsukiji Market Trader preparing freshly caught fish for sale

Tsukiji Market Trader preparing freshly caught fish for sale

 

Asakusa

 

Prayer boards in Asakusa

Prayer boards in Asakusa

 

The Asakusa region is home to the Senso-ji temple, the oldest temple in Tokyo. Always bustling with tourists, it’s a good place to go and visit for the street markets and worshippers.

 

Prayer boards in Asakusa

Prayer boards in Asakusa

 

Lighting incense sticks in Asakusa

Lighting incense sticks in Asakusa

 

Temple Door in Asakusa

Temple Door in Asakusa

 

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Chapter Thirteen: Year of the Horse, Tokyo, December 2013. Part One

My final trip for 2013 was to Japan. We set off on the day after Christmas, and spent the New Year holiday there, returning in the first week of January. The plan was to spend a couple of nights in Tokyo, then spend New Year in Nagano Prefecture, and then return to Tokyo for the last couple of nights. Although Tokyo is quite an expensive city to spend any time in, I had saved up enough KLM miles to pay for three flights, and was also able to use various hotel points to cover some nights in the hotels. That just left the food and living expenses to cover, and although Tokyo has a reputation for very expensive restaurants, it’s just as easy to find cheap (and good) places to eat as well.

 

Face masks depicting a mix of Western and Far Eastern children's characters. Around the New Year period there are many street markets selling this sort of thing

Face masks depicting a mix of Western and Far Eastern children’s characters. Around the New Year period there are many street markets selling this sort of thing

 

Tokyo offers a number of opportunities to the photographic visitor. First of all there, is a great selection of second hand camera stores there, as discussed during Chapter One. At the time of the trip I was pretty sorted for camera equipment, so didn’t have any intention of spending too much money in any of the gear shops (although I wouldn’t have minded picking up a 50mm Summilux Pre-ASPH, if I could have found one), but I would be lying if I said I hadn’t checked some of them out 🙂 But I got away fairly lightly, and all I bought was the excellent Artisan and Artist braided silk cord strap for the M-E, which offers a really nice solution for carrying the camera.

 

Artisan and Artist Cord Strap, being modelled by Lars on a Leica M at the recent Leica One event in Wetzlar

Artisan and Artist Cord Strap, being modelled by Lars on a Leica M at the recent Leica One event in Wetzlar

 

Unlike normal leather straps, which tend to get twisted and tangled when you wrap them around your wrist, the A&A strap wraps well and doesn’t tangle due to the cylindrical construction of the threads. Being a Japanese product, it is also a lot cheaper to buy in Japan, and only cost me around half of what the same strap would have cost in the Netherlands.

 

God Loves Us....

God Loves Us…. even when you are parading the over priced streets in the Ginza district

 

So, since my gear lust was easily solved, I turned my attention to the other major attraction for photographers in Tokyo: Photography itself! Tokyo is a bustling metropolis, and there is always something happening and something to see. Also the Japanese tend not to worry, and in fact seem to enjoy, when people are taking their photographs, so it makes it a very easy location to do street photography. I’ve been to Tokyo a number of times now, but there are still many regions that I have yet to discover, so I visited a combination of new and old places, and tried to shoot photos that combined the culture that Tokyo has, together with the people that live there.

Yoyogi Park/Harajuku

 

leica-m

Waiting outside the NHK Studios in Yoyogi Park, Shibuya, Tokyo on a Sunday morning. NHK is the Japanese national broadcaster, and presumably they were waiting for the arrival of the latest Japanese teenage heart throb…..

 

The first Sunday in town I decided to spend some of my time around the Yoyogi Park and Harajuku areas. This park connects Shibuya to the Meiji Jingu Shrine and Harajuku district, and is full of runners and walkers wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of the Tokyo streets. I was hoping to be able to find some of the world famous ‘Harajuku girls’, but there were very few around. Asking around suggested that the Harajuku area was no longer as fashionable as it was in the past, and the girls had moved on elsewhere.

 

Angels on a Bridge. Because sometimes you just have to dress up as an angel. And stand on a bridge.

Angels on a Bridge. Because sometimes you just have to dress up as an angel. And stand on a bridge.

 

Even without an abundance of Harajuku girls though, there is still plenty to see around the streets. Youth culture is still very much apparent, and people walk around the streets in a mixture of styles.

 

Saving the world, one step at a time. You meet some odd people in Tokyo. He was a quick chap. Completely missed my focus.....

Saving the world, one step at a time. You meet some odd people in Tokyo. He was a quick chap. Completely missed my focus…..

 

Sometimes you need just a little bit of extra effort if you are going to tempt shoppers into your shop......

Sometimes you need just a little bit of extra effort if you are going to tempt shoppers into your shop……

 

There we are, a couple of Harajuku girls to end the post. We tried to ask them if they were dressed like that to meet with other friends, but they looked at us with surprise and told us they just liked to dress like that…….

 

Token Harajuku Girls

Token Harajuku Girls

 

 

 

 

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Chapter One: Leica, the first steps

I began ‘serious’ photography back at university, when digital was only just getting going. At the time I didn’t have much money, so scrimped and saved to buy myself a semi decent analogue camera kit based around the Nikon F601. I was the picture editor/photographer for the college paper, so ended up spending a fair amount in the darkroom, mostly against a deadline, getting my black and white films developed and printed for inclusion in the following issue. As time went by and I got a reasonably paying job, I was able to upgrade the film gear to a Nikon D70, one of the earlier Nikon digital cameras, and I haven’t looked back since, progressing through the various models in the Nikon family up to the D800 that I have today.

Whilst the Nikon gives truly excellent image quality, there is one thing that frequently frustrates me – carrying a D800 with one or other of the pro lenses I own is just not a compact solution. Especially when walking around on a trip with my family, the camera stays in the bag to avoid getting in the way whilst pushing the pushchair or carrying my daughter. So at the end of 2012, and with an upcoming trip to Japan being planned, I decided to take a step backwards in terms of technological progression, and bought myself a film camera. But not just any film camera – my intention was that the chosen platform would be compact, simple, expandable, a pleasure to use, and above all something that I could slip under my jacket or into my laptop case when I want to travel light.

 

Leica M6 with Summarit 35mm

Leica M6 with Summarit 35mm 

 

Of course, I could have found myself any number of digital (compact) cameras that would have fulfilled some or all of those criteria, but I wanted something a bit different. Something that would make me stop and think before pressing the shutter button, to avoid returning home with hundreds of shots and having to sort through 10 of the same shot, looking for the one with the perfect smile or ultimate sharpness in the subject’s eye. My thought was that if I only had 24 or 36 shots per roll, this wouldn’t be an issue.

Researching beforehand on the internet I realised that there was still quite a following for various film models, even though the selection of films and the number of locations to get the films developed is reducing year over year. I’d previously toyed with the idea of buying myself a Leica digital rangefinder, so, with this in mind as a potential future upgrade path, I decided to look at the Leica film rangefinder cameras as a possible solution. One of the main advantages of the Leica rangefinder platform (the M system) is that all of the lenses that have been produced for the range of Ms, from the M1 to the latest M9 or MM cameras, are backwards compatible. There’s no problem about lenses not working with the latest AF system or not being able to stop down automatically – everything in the Leica world is manual, including focus and aperture control.

 

Taken with the Summarit 35mm at f/2.5 - at least I think so, since I don't have any EXIF data to rely on ;))

Taken with the Summarit 35mm at f/2.5 – at least I think so, since I don’t have any EXIF data to rely on ;))

 

Japan is a haven for secondhand Leica, at least in terms of second hand selection – one of the the store salesmen told me that many elderly Japanese had invested in Leica years ago, and were now offloading their gear to second hand camera stores on a consignment basis to get some money for retirement. My plan was to pick up both a camera and lens whilst we were in Tokyo for 5 days over Christmas, preferably on the first day, so that I could then spend the rest of the two week holiday using the camera and getting to know it. However, as luck would have it, I got a good deal on a Leica 35mm Summarit lens that I was bidding on on eBay, and picked that up a couple of days before I was due to depart from a seller in Belgium. The Summarit range of lenses are newer to the Leica range, introduced as a low cost (in Leica terms) alternative to the more expensive Summicron and Summilux lenses. It boasts a maximum aperture of f/2.5, and various Leica aficionados on the net rate them very highly, so it seemed like a sensible option. Ultimately, if I didn’t get on with the lens I would be able to sell it on to someone else for pretty much the same as I had paid, so it felt like a safe bet.

So I set off to Japan with just a lens and no camera, and a list of addresses to visit. (Actually, that’s a slight lie as I did have my Panasonic Lumix with me as a backup, but ended up not using it).

We were staying in the Shinjuku area, which is well known for it’s abundance of second hand camera shops, and, along with Ginza, is one of the better locations to head to if you are looking for something new or not so new. The evening of the day we arrived, I went for a walk around and started to look at my options.

As I mentioned earlier, Tokyo has a fine selection of (preowned) gear from all of the main camera manufacturers. Whilst the prices aren’t necessarily the lowest in the world due to the current exchange rate, this is made up for by the choice that a prospective buyer has. I had researched the various stores before hand and had an idea of where I would be going, based upon the great buyer’s guide by Bellamy at Japan Camera Hunter. I started wandering round the stores looking at row upon row of well cared for, and, in most cases, mint condition, M bodies. I already knew that I would be looking for a Leica M6 0.72x body, so that was my main target. After looking round various stores, I stumbled across Lemon Camera, and found what I was looking for – a boxed, as new condition M6, complete with the original box, strap, and paperwork. Even had the warranty card included, although this had long expired since the camera dates back to 1993. Luckily the guy in the shop spoke pretty good English, so we had a nice conversation whilst he let me test all the usual stuff when buying a second hand camera (if you’re in the market, check CameraQuest’s checklist before you buy), and I had made my decision.

Lemon Camera seems to be a really good shop and well worth a visit if you are in Tokyo. Most of the gear they sell is done so on consignment – meaning that the price is set by the owner, and then the shop adds 10-20% to the price and takes on the responsibility of selling the gear. This means that you typically receive the product with no right of return, and no warranty, although I was lucky that this particular camera was not being sold on consignment, but instead by the shop themselves. They had fully tested it and were even prepared to offer a 6 month warranty against failure (not that the older mechanical Leica’s ever seem to have problems, according to what I have read). I would never be able to use the warranty as I would be taking the camera back to the Netherlands, however it was a good piece of mind to have that the shop was prepared to stand by the condition of the camera. Lemon’s shop in Shinjuku is fairly small, but they have a much larger store in Ginza. I stopped in there later in the week, and as luck would have it was approached by the same guy who had dealt with me in Shinjuku when I purchased the M6, and he helped me choose a very nice Artisan and Artist leather half case for the camera. The Ginza store had over 20 M6 to choose from, as well as a similar number of M4, M5, and M7 bodies. Also a number of rarer lenses, such as not one but two copies of the revered Noctilux 50mm f/1.0 lens, although that is way out of my budget for now…..

Usain Bolt's Nissan GT-R

Usain Bolt’s Nissan GT-R

 

My first impressions with the camera are very positive. Every aspect of the camera is a joy to use, from loading the film, to winding on in between exposures, to the flexibility that shooting with a fully manual camera provides. I found that people generally ignore me with the camera due to the discrete form factor, which is a welcome change compared to the angry stares you get if you hold a D3 with a 24-70mm in someone’s face to take their photo. I’ll certainly be writing more about my experiences with the camera in a future blog post, so, for now, stay tuned!

 

Self Portrait

Self Portrait

 

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